Frequently Asked Questions

Soil is made up of inorganic material derived from parent rock; organic matter from decaying plants and animals; bacteria and fungi; water; and gases, such as carbon dioxide and oxygen. Soil provides anchorage to plants and serves as a reservoir of nutrients and water. It also moderates the effect of temperature upon the roots.

To be an organic product, the ingredients must come from natural sources; ie: composts, manures, guanos, animal bloods, poultry by-products or seaweed extracts. Products containing some natural ingredients and some synthetic ingredients, such as mined minerals, are described as naturally based.

An annual is a plant with a lifecycle of one year. It, therefore, must be replanted or reseeded every year. A perennial is a plant that grows from the same root system for at least three years, usually flowering and bearing seeds annually. A biennial is a plant with a life cycle of two years. Many biennials self-sow, giving the appearance of a perennial.

Some shrubs that could work in that situation would be Privet, Barberry, or Yews.

The key to growing plant material under mature trees is to make sure the plants receive enough moisture. The roots of the trees in addition to the dense overhead cover of the evergreen trees do not allow enough moisture for most plants and especially plants trying to get established. Installing a drip irrigation system under the trees would be recommended. To find a Certified Green Industry Professional with expertise in irrigation installation, please click here.

You will want to prune wisteria in midwinter, and again in the summertime. In the summer, pruning your wisteria should be done about two months after it flowers.

There are many animal repellents on the market. Many of these will not harm the environment. Visit your local garden center as they can suggest a product to help deter these critters.

• Mulch: The benefits of mulch in the landscape include moisture conservation, weed management, temperature moderation, and nutrient release through decomposition. Mulch rings around trees planted in turf also provide the added benefits of reducing competition from surrounding grass for water and nutrients and protecting trunks from weed trimmers and lawn mowers. Recommendations call for 3 inches of mulch evenly applied across the planting area without allowing it to be in contact with the trunk.
• Watering: The best start to ensuring adequate moisture at planting is to start with adequate soil or media moisture going into the hole. Newly installed plants rely on soil ball and container moisture to supply their needs. Concentrate watering on the root mass whether it is soil or media and provide some moisture to the backfill/root mass interface. Target future watering to the base of the plant and regulate the timing based on stock type, available irrigation systems, and weather conditions. Remember, an automatic irrigation system does not necessarily ensure that water is penetrating into root masses during establishment.
• Pruning: Pruning at planting is recommended to minimize the demand for water by the emerging shoots and expanding leaves. Pruning on newly planted plants should be limited to shoots that do not contribute to overall crown shape or appearance. This will lighten the density of the crown without having a substantial impact on overall shoot development and leaf expansion.
• Fertilization: Nutrient uptake is important for plant growth and development. Fertilization at planting can promote root growth, enhance establishment and minimize the transplant shock period resulting in achieving both aesthetic and environmental benefits sooner. Fertilizer at planting should be based on soil tests of the backfill or existing site soils.

There are a few guidelines to follow when planning to prune. The appropriate time to prune will depend on the plant type, its condition, and the desired outcome. When pruning flowering plants it is important to consider flowering time. Spring flowering plants should be pruned soon after flowering. These plants form flower buds on previous season’s wood. Any pruning after bud development in late summer will remove flower buds and potentially limit the flower display during the following spring. Summer flowering plants flower on current season’s wood, and are best pruned after flowering or until growth starts in the spring. Many fruit plants produce flower buds on short, lateral shoots referred to as spurs. Timing remains the same, but pruning practice will be modified to retain the spur growth.

Choosing the right pruning tool can be as important as understanding the basic principles. It is important to select the appropriate tool for the branch or stem size. Inappropriate use of pruning tools can result in unnecessary damage to the plant and tools, along with wasted effort and frustration by the operator. Common pruning tools are hand shears, lopping shears, hedge shears, knives, saws, pole saws, and pole pruners.

There are two basic types of hand and lopping shears, hook and blade (bypass) and anvil. The hook and blade cuts by the curved blade passing close to the curved/hooked anvil. The anvil type cuts by the flat blade pressing against a flat anvil. The anvil type is best used with small stems and branches. Hand shears are usually recommended for use on stems up to 3/4” in diameter. Lopping shears can cut branches up to 1 1/2” in diameter. Ratchet models of both hand and lopping shears are available, making cutting easier and/or extending the range of stem diameter efficiently cut.

Pruning tools should be clean, in good working order, and by all means sharp. Keep tools out of the soil, remove sap or other materials from the blade, lubricate the blade and moving parts with the appropriate lubricant, and sharpen blades according to manufacturer’s recommendations. When pruning plants with diseases known to spread, disinfect tools with an alcohol or bleach solution between cuts.

The following are a few safety tips when pruning:

• Always wear appropriate safety gear including gloves, eye protection, and safety shoes.
• Avoid baggy clothing.
• Keep both feet on the ground; if you must climb or use a ladder, use approved equipment, take the necessary safety precautions, and use a ground assistant.
• Work close to your body, at bent arm’s length. Do not force a cut or use power equipment with your arms fully extended.
• Do not cut over your head.
• Avoid work near power lines.
• Be familiar with the safe handling, storage, and transport of all equipment.

When using electric powered equipment:

• Secure the cord away from the operation to avoid cutting it with the blades.
• Disconnect the power before cleaning and making adjustments.
• Never use during or immediately after rain.
• Follow necessary safety precautions when using gas operated equipment.
• Know your limitations. Do not overestimate your stamina.

The timing for starting seeds indoors depends on what you are starting for your garden. Most plants, whether a vegetable, annual, or perennial, have different germination rates. The best information is on the back of the seed pack. Most seeds emerge 7-14 days after they are planted. You also need to find out what the average last frost date is in your area. Use the information from the seed packet to determine the germination time required and count backward from the last frost date to determine when you start your seeds inside. You will need to harden off your plants for one week before planting them in the garden. The seed packet gives you a lot of good information.

It is important to select a good site when growing vegetables. The location should have at least 6 hours of sun a day with a southern exposure. The soil should be well drained, but not located on a steep slope. The best soil type is a sandy loam. The garden will not be successful if there isn’t sufficient water; choose a site within reach of a hose. It must also be accessible for people and equipment. Locate the garden away from trees, especially black walnut, as its roots are toxic to certain vegetables. Soils that are going to grow good food crops should not have shrub, tree or other kinds of roots in it. When laying out the garden, orient the rows north to south. Most importantly, rotate crop locations each year.